Goat competition in the show arena is increasing every year as 4-H members discover goats are an excellent choice as a club project. Goats are relatively small, easy to work with, and require a small amount of space. They can provide a meaningful livestock experience for a reasonable amount of expense.

Once you decide on a club goat project, you should determine which shows you will attend. It is your responsibility to read the rules and regulations governing the shows you will attend. The rules will determine the number of goats you may enter, weight limits, ownership dates, and entry deadlines. You can get show schedules, rules, and regulations from your county Extension agent or directly from the show. Show dates are important because they will determine the time of year you should buy your goats.

Some shows may require that goats have their milk teeth. Goats usually hold their milk teeth until they are 10 to 12 months of age. Then a goat will probably lose its baby teeth and become ineligible to show.

Most shows also have weight limit requirements. Usually goats will gain approximately 2 to 3 pounds per week. Not all goats can be fed to the same final weight because of differences in frame size. Large-frame goats may be correctly finished at 120 pounds, while small-frame goats may be correctly finished at 80 pounds. You must learn to look at indicators of frame size and growth (length of head, neck, cannon bone, and body) to determine at what weight a goat will be correctly finished. If you know the approximate weight of a goat at the time of purchase and the length of time until the show, you can calculate feed requirements (light, moderate, or heavy) needed to let that goat enter the show at its correct weight. Remember that size does not make a good goat. There are good small goats and good big goats. Your management program is the key.

Facilities and Equipment

One of the major advantages of a club goat project is that you do not need expensive facilities. A barn or shed where goats can get away from cold, wet, or drafty conditions and a pen with outside exposure are essential. Adequate fencing, a feeder, and a water container are required. Other equipment is optional.

Barns/sheds

Goats need a shed or barn and an area where they can get outside in the sunshine. Ideally the shed area has at least 15 square feet of space for each goat. The outside pen needs to be as large as possible to let the goats exercise. The shed should be well drained and open to the east or south. Barn temperature is critical. Structures should be well-ventilated so goats can stay cool and continue to grow in the summer months. However, if club goats are slick shorn for shows, you should change the barns in winter to keep goats as warm as possible. You can do this by closing the front with a tarp or plastic sheet and by using heat lamps.

Fences

The fence should be at least 42 inches high to keep goats from trying to jump. Fences should be predator proof. Net wire fences should be 12-inch mesh rather than 6-inch mesh to keep goats from hanging their heads in the wire. The most desirable pens are galvanized livestock panels 5 feet tall with 4-inch squares.

Feeders

Self-feeders are preferred for feeding goats. Self-feeders should be at least 6 inches off the ground. If you hand-feed goats, use movable troughs that hang on the fence. Hang troughs at the same height as the top of the shoulder of the goat you are feeding. You should take down these movable troughs and clean them regularly. Hay and mineral feeders also need to be raised off the ground. This will help reduce the spread of disease. It also is important to make sure goats cannot stand in their feed troughs because they will urinate or defecate on the feed.

Water containers

Fresh water is the most important nutrient for club goats. Water containers should be small so you can empty and clean them regularly. Put containers in the shade to keep water cool.

In the hot summer months, some goats tend to drink too much water and will appear "full." Water should never be totally removed from the goat. However, rationing water before a show will help remove the "fill" and improve the goat's appearance in the show ring. Remember, maintaining the proper amount of fluids is vital to the feel and condition of your goat.

Equipment

To feed and exhibit a club goat properly, you should have the following extra equipment:

• stiff brush to clean water troughs
• shovel to clean pens
• trimming table
• small animal grooming clippers
• syringes and needles
• goat blankets and/or socks
• halters, collars, and/or show chains
• hoof trimmers
• small portable feed troughs
• soft brush for grooming
• water bucket
• extension cords

You may want this equipment if you are exhibiting several goats at major shows:

• show box to hold equipment
• hot air blower or dryer
• portable livestock scales
• muzzles
• electric fans

Selection

Selecting a goat for your project is one of the most important decisions you will make. The type of goat you select will have a major influence on the project's results. Remember, a winning meat goat is a combination of proper selection, nutritional management, and grooming as well as quality showmanship.

Some people have a natural eye for selecting young animals of high caliber. Do not hesitate to ask for help from someone with these skills. It may be your county Extension agent, FFA instructor, parent, or another leader in the county. Many breeders are willing to assist you in your selection.

Muscle and fat are important when selecting a prospect. Young goats with bloom and fat will always look good, while young, thin goats might not look as nice. Learn to look past fat and recognize muscle so you can pick a genetically superior goat.

When purchasing a goat, it is important to know something about the producer. Do not hesitate to ask questions about the goat's bloodline and age.

Consider the following when selecting a goat: structural correctness, muscle, volume and capacity, style and balance, and growth potential.

Indicators of Poor Body Conformation

Body Types

Structural correctness

Structural correctness refers to the skeletal system or bone structure of an animal. A goat should hold its head erect, and the neck should extend out the top of the shoulders.

A goat should travel and stand wide and straight on both front and rear legs, and the legs should be placed squarely under the body. A goat should have a strong, level top and a long rump with a slight slope from hooks to pins.

Your goat should be heavy boned and strong on its pasterns. Avoid goats with open shoulders, weak tops, weak pasterns, or steep rumps.

Muscle

Generally, a goat that walks and stands wide is going to be heavier muscled. The goat should have a deep, heavily muscled leg and rump. When viewed from behind, the widest part of the leg should be the stifle area.

The goat should have a broad, thick back and loin that is naturally firm and hard handling. A good goat should be wide through its chest floor, with bold shoulders and a prominent forearm muscle. The forearm is the best indicator of muscling in thin goats.

Volume and capacity

This refers to the relationship of body length to body depth and body width. Goats should be long bodied, with adequate depth and spring of rib. Avoid selecting goats that are short bodied, shallow bodied, narrow based, and flat ribbed.

Style and balance

Style and balance refer to the way all body parts blend together, how the neck blends into the shoulder, the shoulder into the rib cage, the rib cage into the loin, the loin into the rump, or the "eye-appeal" of the goat. When viewed from the side, a goat should have a smooth shoulder, level top, trim middle, and straight legs.

Growth potential

An animal's ability to grow rapidly is very important. Generally, a larger framed goat that shows a long head, neck, cannon bone, and body will grow faster, be larger, and be more competitive in the show ring.

Parts of a Meat Goat

Nutrition

Contrary to popular belief, there is no such thing as a "magic" ration to make your goat a champion. Implement a good feeding program and analyze the goat to know when to make feed changes.

Since goats do not deposit external fat as rapidly as other species of livestock, a self-feeding program is most effective. However, sometimes goats can become too fat during the feeding period and should be hand fed to control the amount of feed consumed.

All livestock require five basic nutrients: water, protein, fats and carbohydrates (or energy), minerals, and vitamins.

Water

Clean, fresh water is a daily necessity, since water composes more than 70 percent of lean tissue, and all body fluids must be replenished regularly. Never deprive your goat of water, because it regulates how much feed a goat will eat. However, reducing water intake immediately before a show can reduce feed intake and reduce the size of the rumen for an improved appearance.

Protein

The main ingredient of the animal body is protein. Dietary protein serves to maintain or replace protein in body tissues, provides for carriers of other nutrients, and is a major part of various products such as meat, milk, and fiber.

Protein requirements for goats vary according to their size, age, and maturity. Young, fast-growing goats need more protein to let them grow and develop their muscle potential. Rations that contain 16 to 18 percent protein are useful during many phases of the feeding program. Remember, goats need protein daily. If you feed more protein than required, the extra is used for energy. Using protein as an energy source is very expensive.

When total feed intake is greatly reduced, protein supplementation may be necessary to provide the adequate daily requirements for your goat.

Carbohydrates and fats

The most common limiting nutrients in goat rations are energy producing carbohydrates and fats. Low energy intake will slow growth and cause weight loss. Enough energy is necessary for efficient nutrient use. Grains and protein supplements are high in energy. In goat rations, too high an energy intake can be just as harmful as too low an energy intake.

Minerals

The most important minerals in goat rations are salt (sodium and chlorine), calcium, and phosphorus. You can feed salt free choice.

Calcium and phosphorus are both necessary for proper growth and development. Feed them at a ratio of two parts calcium to one part phosphorus. High levels of phosphorus in relation to calcium can cause urinary calculi. Adding ammonium chloride to a ration will help prevent urinary calculi.

Any balanced ration will contain the necessary amounts of minerals to maintain proper growth and development.

Vitamins

Vitamins are essential for proper body function. Goats require them in very small amounts. Only vitamin A is ever likely to be deficient. If you feed goats alfalfa hay or dehydrated alfalfa pellets in the ration, then vitamin A deficiency should not be a problem. It is a good practice to occasionally inoculate goats with a B complex vitamin. This promotes their health and helps maintain appetite.

Health

The key to a healthy goat is the development of a preventive health program. Most goats purchased for club projects should be on a health maintenance program and have had a variety of vaccinations. However, as you develop your preventive program, assume the goat you have purchased has had no treatments. You should include in your program vaccinations and treatments for certain common problems.

Enterotoxemia

A major cause of death in club goats is enterotoxemia, or overeating disease. Afflicted animals seldom show symptoms, and rapid death is usually the result. This disease is caused by a clostridial organism normally present in the intestine of most goats. Goats that have their feeding schedules abruptly changed or take in large amounts of grain are subject to enterotoxemia types C and D.

Feeding changes can cause the clostridial organism to grow rapidly and produce a powerful toxin that causes death in a few hours. All club goats should be vaccinated with a combination (types C and D) vaccine immediately after purchase. At least one booster vaccination is recommended.

Internal parasites

Internal parasites are a continual problem. Newly purchased goats should be dewormed immediately for internal parasites and a second treatment should follow about 3 weeks later.

Few dewormers are approved to treat goats for internal parasites. Your veterinarian will have the best information on the most effective treatments. Because internal parasites develop resistance to a dewormer over time, it may be more effective to rotate products.

Urinary calculi

Urinary calculi is a metabolic disease of male goats characterized by the formation of calculi, or stones, in the urinary tract. The first sign of calculi is a goat's inability to pass urine. The goat will be restless, kick at its belly, stretch, and attempt to urinate.

Because grains are high in phosphorus and low in calcium, high concentrate rations may cause urinary calculi. Use a ration that contains ammonium chloride and provide plenty of clean, fresh drinking water at all times.

Coccidiosis

Coccidiosis causes weight loss and continued inefficiency in goats. Bloody diarrhea, dehydration, weight loss, and weakness characterize the disease.

Separate sick goats and treat them individually as prescribed by a veterinarian.

Most commercial show goat rations are medicated with a coccidiostat that will help control coccidiosis.

Soremouth

Soremouth is a contagious viral disease that causes scabs on the lips and around the goat's mouth. This virus can affect humans, so be careful when handling goats with soremouth. You can rub iodine into lesions after the scabs are removed, and this will help dry the area and reduce the infection. Vaccines are available to help prevent this problem.

Ringworm

Ringworm has become a serious problem in the lamb industry. Because most club goats are shown in the same barns and show rings as lambs, ringworm probably will become a problem in goats as well. Ringworm can be spread from goat to goat, from goat to human, or from infected equipment to goat. A good prevention program is necessary. Consult your veterinarian for the best information on treatment.

Pinkeye

This contagious disease is characterized by excessive watering of the eye and clouding over of the pupil. Goats are especially susceptible to pinkeye when stressed or after they have been transported to a new location. Dry, dusty pens and constant exposure to sunlight can be contributing factors. Several medications are on the market for pinkeye. If you do not notice improvement within a few days after treatment, contact your veterinarian.

Illegal drugs

State and federal laws and regulations concerning the use of drugs for livestock and poultry help protect human and animal health. They state that instructions and restrictions on product labels must be strictly followed. The labels state which species or class of livestock or poultry the drug is to be used on, the recommended way to give the drug, the approved dosage rate, and specific conditions to be treated.

When giving drugs, always follow label instructions. Using a drug in a manner other than stated on its label is regulated by the Food and Drug Administration and may be done only under the control of a licensed veterinarian. The veterinarian assumes the responsibility for making medical judgments, and you agree to follow the instructions strictly. Most livestock shows have strict policies against the illegal use of drugs and will disqualify animals if such drugs have been used.

Hoof trimming

A goat's hooves will grow long if they are not naturally worn down by traveling over rough terrain. You should trim long hooves about every 6 weeks. Always trim hooves 1 to 2 weeks before a show in case you accidentally cut into the quick and temporarily cripple the goat. This will allow the goat time to heal before the show.

If foot rot develops, trim the hoof closely, treat with an external product, and give an antibiotic.

Dehorning or tipping

Some shows require that goats be dehorned. If you plan to dehorn, it is preferred to "disbud" goats at 10 to 14 days of age. The older the goat is and the larger the horn, the more stressful it will be on the goat.

Other shows request only that goat horns be tipped for show. You can easily tip without causing much stress to the goat. You should tip horns 4 to 6 weeks before the show to allow the horns to heal properly. Dehorning or tipping rules are made strictly for the safety of the exhibitors.

Management and Feeding

You have a choice of feeding a commercially prepared ration or mixing your own. Many complete commercial rations are available. Since goats are picky eaters, a pelleted ration is recommended over a textured ration.

Select a balanced ration; learn how to feed it and how your goat responds. Many young goats will not know how to eat pelleted feed from a trough. You should start these goats on good, leafy alfalfa hay that is topped with a small amount of feed. After 3 or 4 days, slowly increase the selected ration. Hay is normally fed during the first part of the feeding program but should be eliminated in the later stages to prevent goats from developing a large stomach.

Most goats can be put on a self-feeder for the entire feeding period. However, some goats may become fat and need to be hand fed.

You must keep check on fat deposition throughout the feeding program. You can adjust the feeding schedule to change gain and body composition, but you must continually keep watch so you can make any more needed changes. Rations not producing enough finish can be bolstered by adding a high-energy ingredient, such as corn, during the late stages of the feeding program.

Never make abrupt changes in your feeding program. Make gradual feed changes so your goat will stay on feed and continue to grow and develop. A good program cannot make up for a lack of superior genetics but will let your goat reach its full genetic potential.

Feeding is a daily responsibility. Change your program as needed to get greatest results. Keep check on gain by weighing your goat regularly and recording weights.

Exercise can be very good for your goat and toward your success in the show ring. Goats are very active animals, and if given enough room will exercise themselves. Have objects like big rocks or wooden spools in your pen for the goat to climb and jump. This will give your goat an excellent chance to exercise. A goat that exercises will handle harder and firmer and will give you an advantage in the show ring.

Fitting

Some shows may enforce a shearing rule for goats. Since differences in hair length are allowed at shows, it is important to read the show rules before clipping your goat for a particular show. It is necessary to wash your goat before clipping, as clean hair will cut smoother. Use a mild soap sparingly, rinse the animal thoroughly, and dry the goat completely. Regularly brush your goat with a stiff brush, because brushing removes dead hair and dirt.

Shear your goat according to show rules at least 1 week to 10 days before the show. While shearing, run the clippers parallel to the length of the body rather than vertically. Do not shear hair below the knees and hocks. Bob the hair on the end of the tail. Blend in leg hair with the body, and clip legs to mirror structural correctness. Small animal clippers are preferred to clip closely around the eyes, ears, pasterns, or delicate areas on the goat.

By R. Kipp Brown, Area Livestock Agent. Adapted from Publication AS 3-4.059, Texas Agricultural Extension Service.

Mississippi State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status.

Publication 2264
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director

Copyright by Mississippi State University. All rights reserved.

This document may be copied and distributed for nonprofit educational purposes provided that credit is given to the Mississippi State University Extension Service.

Meat Goat Selection and Care

"Meat goat" is a term new to the southeastern part of the United States. In this context, the term is used as a breed, even though meat goats do not qualify as a breed in any technical sense. Other terms referring to meat goats to distinguish them from Angora and dairy goats include "brush goat," "Spanish goat," or "common goat." Recently the South African Boer Goat has provided a new source of genetics for meat goat producers; therefore, the term "meat goat" can incorporate any combination of all goats.

The lack of a well-defined, distinct, and perhaps superior meat goat breed in the United States has adversely affected meat goat production. However, genetic improvement through selection and breeding programs can produce a more desirable animal with a quality carcass that would improve the demand for the product. This publication discusses several points for the selection and care of meat goats. A sample production budget that can be adapted to a particular operation is included and is designed for producers interested in raising meat-type goats.

Selecting Meat-Type Goats

Selecting meat goats for growth rate and meat qualities has not been widespread in the industry, primarily because meat goats usually are not a major livestock enterprise. In selecting goats for meat production, consider (1) adaptability to environmental and production conditions, (2) reproductive rate, and (3) growth rate.

The best way to increase adaptability is to select for the desired traits under your actual production conditions. Select your breeding stock from animals maintained under the same natural conditions in which their progenies will be raised.

Reproductive efficiency is a major factor contributing to efficient meat production, but it is difficult to select for under range conditions. To increase reproductive efficiency, improved management of the breeding herd--including selection for twinning rate and culling nonproducing nannies--is necessary and will yield good results.

Selecting goats for growth rate should be relatively easy because of the fairly high heritability of the trait. Base growth rate selection on higher postweaning gains of yearling weights.

Selecting for growth rate, reproductive efficiency, and environmental adaptability will greatly improve production efficiency (pounds of production per doe bred) and the likelihood of making a profit.

PART OF A MEAT GOAT

Marketing

• Know where you are going to market the goats before you purchase any goats.
• Compare production costs (see Budget) with a realistic market to determine a profit.
• Start small and develop a realistic market before establishing a large-scaled enterprise.

Managing Meat Goats

Feeding the Does

Goats do well on good pasture or browse; however, the mature goat will require 3 to 4 pounds of hay daily unless she is getting adequate pasture or browse. In addition, a grain-based supplement might be required during periods of high production, as in flushing, late gestation, and early lactation. The amount of supplement needed varies with pasture and/or hay quality and the quantity fed. The crude protein (CP) content of the supplement also varies with the forage quality. Two simple gain supplements include the following:

1. 50 pounds of corn or milo
   20 pounds of oats or barley
   20 pounds wheat bran 10 pounds of cottonseed meal
2. 40 pounds corn or milo 20 pounds oats or barley 25 pounds wheat bran 15 pounds cottonseed meal

The first ration provides approximately 14 percent CP and the second about 16 percent CP. Goats dislike finely ground, dusty feeds, so grains should be coarsely ground, rolled, crimped, or pelleted. It is recommended you add a trace mineralized salt and a balanced, 12 percent calcium:12 percent phosphorus supplement to any ration. You can add molasses to the supplement (5 to 7 percent usually is recommended) to reduce dust and to enhance palatability. Also, always have salt available to the goats.

Breeding the Does

Most goats are seasonal breeders, with the breeding season initiated by decreasing daylight hours. The season varies, with some goats breeding during any season of the year--but reproductive activity is highest from August through January. Does come in heat (estrus) at intervals of 20 to 21 days and usually remain in heat 1 to 2 days.

Signs of estrus are easily detected and include uneasiness, an unusual amount of tail wagging, frequent urination, an abnormal amount of bleating, reddish and swollen vulva, and mucus under the tail. Riding other animals or standing for riding is not seen as often in goats near estrus as in cows. Conception is highest from the middle to the latter part of the heat period, 24 to 36 hours after onset of estrus. The gestation period in goats is 148 to 150 days. Maintaining good records of all heat periods and breeding dates is important to maximize reproductive efficiency.

Young does tend to reach puberty or sexual maturity at 5 to 9 months of age, provided they have been grown adequately and are in good condition. Keep bucks separated from does (except during the breeding season) in order to breed during the desired time interval. Prepare the bucks for the breeding season by daily feeding them 1 to 2 pounds of grain plus 3 to 4 pounds of hay or forage.

If does are thin at breeding time, kidding percent can be increased by "flushing," which is increasing nutrition during breeding. This puts the animal in weight-gaining condition and causes an increase in the ovulation rate. Flushing can be done by turning goats on a fresh, lush pasture if it is available or by feeding grain. For flushing, corn is most often fed at the rate of ½ to ¾ of a pound per head per day. Begin feeding 2 to 3 weeks before the bucks are turned in with the does and continue for 2 to 3 weeks after the introduction of the bucks (for a total feeding period of 4 to 6 weeks). Flushing generally results in a 10- to 20-percent increase in kid crop, but does in good condition generally will not benefit from flushing.

Raising the Kids

It is important that the kid goat receive colostrum (the first milk) as soon as possible after birth and for at least 2 days. Colostrum provides antibodies for resistance to disease and is high in nutrients, including energy, vitamin A, the B vitamins, protein, and minerals. Overfeeding colostrum or other milk can cause scours. Extra colostrum can be saved by freezing and fed at body temperature at some later date. Orphan kids may be left on goat's milk or changed to cow's milk or a commercial milk replacer after the first days on colostrum.

Kids must have a warm, dry place to sleep if they are taken from their mothers. A deep wooden box with a slanted floor is raised off the ground to provide drainage makes a good bed for new kids. The box should be well-bedded and draft-free.

For the first 3 to 4 days after birth, a kid should receive 2 to 3 pints of milk in three to four feedings per day. Kids can be fed twice per day thereafter. A creep feed containing approximately 20 percent CP and a high-quality hay should be made available to kids at about 2 weeks of age. Keep clean, fresh water and salt available at all times, especially when the kids are weaned from milk at 8 to 12 weeks of age.

As soon as the kid begins eating a little grain and hay, the rumen will begin to develop, allowing the kid to use roughage materials. The kid will begin chewing its cud at this time. When the kid is eating hay and grain well, usually at about 4 to 6 weeks of age, you can discontinue milk feeding. The rumen will be fully developed at approximately 8 weeks of age.

The kid should have plenty of exercise and as much sunshine as possible. Provide boxes or barrels for older kids to have something on which to climb and jump. Separate the buck kids from the does at about 2 to 4 months of age to avoid premature breeding.

Dehorning

Horn development is a recessive trait of goats and is found in most breeds. For safety purposes, remove the horns while the animals are young, between 3 to 14 days of age. There are several ways to dehorn goats, including dehorning pastes or similar caustic compounds, burning irons, or physically removing the horns.

Castration

Bucks develop musk glands when they reach puberty. These glands emit a telltale odor that often taints the taste and odor of the meat. Once an animal reaches puberty, they are more active and are harder to feed to an acceptable level of eating quality. Male goats not to be used for breeding must be castrated as soon as possible. Like dehorning, this can be done in several ways. Consult your veterinarian for best results.

Internal and External Parasites

The roundworm, stomach worm, and coccidiosis are the most significant internal parasites that affect goats. Animals become infested by grazing on pastures contaminated with droppings from other infested goats. Use several pastures in rotation because parasite carryover can be markedly reduced by resting pastures for 30 to 60 days between grazing. Treat newly purchased animals for internal parasites because isolating animals because of internal parasites is of no value.

Coccidiosis can cause severe problems in goats, especially those managed in confined or drylot conditions. Goats managed under these conditions should receive a coccidostat regularly in their feed. Treatment of coccidiosis with anthelmintics is not effective. If you suspect coccidiosis, consult your veterinarian.

Symptoms of parasite infestation include general unthriftiness, a rundown condition, rough hair coat, loss of weight, poor appetite, diarrhea, and anemia. If you suspect your goats are infested with internal parasites, collect fecal samples and take the samples to your veterinarian. Examination will determine the type and degree of infestation and recommended treatment.

External parasites--including lice, ticks, mites, horn flies, stable flies, horse flies, deer flies, and mosquitoes--might present serious problems. These pests are most prevalent in the spring, summer, and fall but can be a problem throughout the year.

Common Diseases

A number of diseases occur in goats. When a problem occurs in your herd, consult your veterinarian. Information is readily available concerning these diseases, their diagnosis, and their treatments. The most significant diseases are soremouth, tetanus, overeating disease, foot rot, and bloat.

• Soremouth is a contagious disease that causes formation of scabs on the lips and around the mouths of goats. This virus can affect humans, so be careful when working with goats with soremouth. A live virus soremouth vaccine, available as a preventative measure, is applied to a small scratched area in the fore or rear flank or in the ear. Few medicines help in the actual treatment of soremouth. Iodine can be rubbed into lesions after the scabs are removed to help dry up the area and reduce the infection. If your goats do not have soremouth, do not vaccinate or you will introduce it into your herd.
• Tetanus (lock jaw) is a disease usually resulting from a wound infection. The disease is caused by a powerful toxin produced by a bacterium that grows in the absence of oxygen. The first sign of tetanus is a stiffness about the goat's head; the animal often chews slowly and weakly and swallows awkwardly. Also, the goat's third or inner eyelids protrude over the forward surface of the eyeballs. The animal shows violent spasmotic reactions with the slightest movement or noise and usually remains standing until close to death. All ages are susceptible, but kids weakened due to castration or dehorning are more susceptible to tetanus. Tetanus is hard to treat, and death occurs in more than 50 percent of the cases. Contact your veterinarian immediately; keep infected goats as quiet as possible. Tetanus antitoxin might help if administered early, but prevention is the best policy. Reduce the incidence of wounds, apply sanitary and proper wound treatments, and vaccinate with tetanus toxoid immediately after dehorning or castration surgery.
• Overeating disease (enterotoxemia) generally results in death and seldom exhibits symptoms. This disease is caused by a clostridial organism that is normally in the intestine of most goats. Goats that have their feeding schedules abruptly changed or consume large amounts of grain are the most susceptible to overeating disease. These changes cause the clostridial organism to grow rapidly and to produce a powerful toxin that causes death within a few hours. The two types of enterotoxemia are C and D. Vaccinate all your goats with the combination C and D vaccine; multiple vaccinations are recommended. Two or three vaccinations are preferred, with the booster doses coming at 3- to 4-week intervals following the first vaccination. A good vaccination program should eliminate losses from overeating.
• Foot rot is not often seen in goats, but it may occur if animals spend considerable time in wet, unsanitary yards or barns. The first symptom is lameness, followed by a swelling of the foot that becomes hot to the touch. Carefully trim the rotten area away and the foot treated with a 10- to 30-percent copper sulfate solution or other medication prescribed by a veterinarian.
• Bloat is the accumulation of an excessive amount of gas in the rumen. This may result from overeating tender, young, high-moisture legumes or other green forages still wet with dew. Symptoms of bloated goats include the animal's lying down and getting up at frequent intervals, kicking at the abdomen, making loud grunting noises, or otherwise showing distress. Prevention includes making sure the animals have a good fill of dry hay before turning them onto moist pasture. Animals can die suddenly with bloat; therefore, do not wait too long before calling the veterinarian for assistance.

Few drugs are approved for use on goats. Nonapproved over-the-counter drugs become prescription drugs. Every goat producer should have a valid client-patient relationship with a veterinarian. Goats that are kept on adequate browse and grazing have few disease problems if not overcrowded. Carefully buying new breeding stock and isolation can help prevent bringing in new diseases. Remember--most goats will be sold for meat; therefore, after treating goats with any drug, be sure there is adequate withdrawal time before slaughter.

References

Alford, Calvin F., Georgia Extension Animal Scientist. "Meat Goat Production," Georgia Meat Goat Association, Vol. 1, No. 1, March-April 1996.

Martinez, Edmundo E., Paschal, Joe C., Craddock, Frank, & Hanselka, C. Wayne. Sept. 1991. Selection, Management and Judging of Meat-Type Spanish Goats. B-5018. Texas Agricultural Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System, College Station, Texas.

Martinez, Edmundo E., Paschal, Joe C., Craddock, Frank, & Rollins, Dale. Spanish Goat Management. B-5021. Texas Agricultural Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System, College Station, Texas.

Strickland, James, Georgia Extension Veterinarian. "Goat Health," Georgia Meat Goat Association, Vol. 1, No. 1, March-April 1996.

Meat-Type Goat Production Calendar

Adapted from Texas Sheep and Goat Production Calendar.

Estimated annual expenses for a meat-type goat operation in Mississippi, 1996.
Does on pasture with supplement during breeding and kidding.
Kids are creep-fed grain and sold at 6 to 7 months of age, weighing an average of 90 pounds.

Notes:

1. This budget is for planning purposes--use only as a guide. Use column on the right to adjust these figures to fit your operation.
2. The market for goats in Mississippi is not well-defined. Income figures depend on location and individual access to market outlets.
3. Expense items are based on the production parameters specified.
   Production Parameters:

By R. Kipp Brown, Director of International Livestock Program, Department of Animal and Dairy Sciences, and Charlie Forrest, Ph.D., Extension Agricultural Economist, Mississippi State University. Adapted from information by the authors and from publications by the Texas A&M Extension System; developed for the Mississippi Agribusiness Council, Fred Heindl, Executive Director.

Mississippi State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status.

Publication 2177
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director

Copyright by Mississippi State University. All rights reserved.

This document may be copied and distributed for nonprofit educational purposes provided that credit is given to the Mississippi State University Extension Service. 

A QUICK GUIDE TO CLUB GOAT SELECTION

It is most important to understand that selection of market goats is different than the selection of breeding goats. More specifically, market goats differ from the characteristics used in judging or selecting breeding goats. In Mississippi, age of prospects selected for Dixie National will be important in achieving proper weight and finish for your market goat. Prospects with a percentage Boer influence should hit in the proper weight break when born from March through May. In the show ring today, ideal market weight ranges from 80-100 pounds. In the industry a 60-80 pound goat demands a top price. The ideal condition or finish on the market ready goat is a thin, but uniform, covering over the loin, rib and shoulder. The external fat thickness over the loin at the 13^th rib should be between .08 to .12 inches or an average of .10 inch. Market goats carrying over .12 inches of fat cover or weighing over 110 pounds are usually undesirable as goats tend to deposit internal fat first and more covering over the rib indicates a very fat goat. This information is important to know when selecting your prospect in order to determine the direction you will be taking your project goat and to achieve desired show characteristics. The type goat you select will have a major impact on the project’s results. A winning market goat is a combination of proper selection, nutritional management, health management, and grooming combined with good showmanship. 

Selecting the proper prospect is the most important step to a good project animal. The criteria you should consider for selection of a prospect meat goat will include muscling (growth and expression), conformation (structural correctness), general appearance (style and balance, size, volume and capacity) and growth potential. 

Muscling is an important trait for market goats and must be given strong consideration. To determine muscle you can look at the shape of the loin and size of the forearm. The loin is a good indicator of muscle throughout. Forearm circumference will correlate to the loin eye area and is a good an indicator of meatiness in thinner goats. The goat should have a broad, thick back and loin that are naturally firm and hard handling. A wide, symmetrically oval shape on each side of the backbone that carries forward over the rack or chine is desirable. The goat should show a wedge shape from front to rear when viewed down the top from behind. At the shoulder, muscling should increase from the chine to the point of the shoulder with the thickest muscle occurring immediately above the chest floor. Usually a goat that walks and stands wide will be heavier muscled. The hindquarters should show a deep, heavily muscled leg and rump. A long, deeply attached muscle that shows expression in the stifle is desirable. The goat should be thickest from stifle to stifle when viewed from the rear. A goat should be wide through the chest floor with bold shoulders and a forearm muscle that exhibits a prominent bulge and ties in deep at the knee. 

A good conformation market goat should be rectangular in appearance from the side with a straight, level top and bottom line. The length of rump, length of body and length of leg are important. A goat should have a strong, level top and a long rump with a slight slope from hooks to pins. The goat should be heavy boned and strong on the pasterns. The feet and legs should be straight and spaced square and wide under the goat. You should avoid goats that are post-legged or cow-hocked. Avoid goats with open shoulders, weak tops, weak pasterns, or steep rumps. 

The general appearance of a good show goat should be one of style combined with balance. The goat should not look to be pieced together. The goat’s height measured at the withers should be slightly more than at the hips, and the head should be in proportion to the body. The goat should blend in smoothly at the shoulder blades and remain free of excess tissue up through the neck. Style and balance means the entire body blends together from front to rear. The relationship of body length to body depth and width equates to volume and capacity. Goats should be long bodied, with adequate depth and spring of rib. When measured from the base of the neck to the base of the tail, an outstanding goat should percentage out at 55 percent hind saddle or better. This means the goat will achieve a greater percentage of his overall length down his top from the 13^th rib back. Avoid goats that are short bodied, shallow bodied, narrow based or flat ribbed. Goats will need to have an adequate length of cannon bone from knee to pastern and should be above average in overall length of body and general size. The cannon bone length is a good indication of skeletal size. The legs should set with the feet pointing straight ahead. The ideal market goat package, when viewed from the side, will show a smooth shoulder, level top, trim middle, and straight legs. 

The ability to grow rapidly or growth potential is important. A larger framed goat that shows a long head, neck, cannon bone, and body will grow faster, be larger, and be more competitive in the show ring. These qualities combined with good muscling, structural correctness, volume and capacity, and style and balance describe a competitive prospect meat goat. Lastly, remember that muscle and fat will play a part in your selection of a prospect. Young goats that carry a lot of bloom will always look good while young, thinner goats might not look as nice. Learn to look past bloom and fat when selecting prospects. Train your eye to identify muscle and fat and to know the difference. Thinner goats that are genetically superior and possess the correct parts, when combined in a balanced package, can provide an outstanding prospect at a reasonable price. 

If you utilize the tools of selection as you evaluate prospect goats, you will be more likely to have success with the project animal. Selection of the proper type prospect is only the beginning of the project. Proper health and nutrition play a major role in the growth and development of your goat. Likewise, proper fitting and showing techniques afford you a much better opportunity for success with your goat in the show ring. The proper selection technique, feeding program, health program, fitting and grooming, and your showmanship ability combined with a little luck will go a long way on the road to success with your club goat project. 

Kipp Brown - Area Agent-4-H Livestock-Mississippi State University Extension Service

Market Goat Showmanship

Some people are natural showmen, but all exhibitors can learn ways to improve their showmanship skills. Showmanship is the one area of livestock exhibition that gives the exhibitor greatest control of the results.

A good showman has a sense for effectively showing an animal. In meat goat showmanship you will be judged on your ability to control and present the goat to bring out its best characteristics.

Meat goat showmanship can teach many valuable lessons to be used in daily life. These lessons include responsibility and learning how to work to reach a goal. This in turn builds character and increases confidence. You can learn outstanding showmanship skills with hours of practice at home. Advanced planning, practice, and hard work are keys to becoming a good show person.

Show Preparation

Training

The time needed to train a goat for show depends on the goat, the size and experience of the exhibitor, and the intensity of training. Some goats are easy to gentle and train for show, while other goats are difficult and nearly impossible to train. Most goats can be trained if you spend enough time and effort.

Unlike lambs, goats are shown with a halter, collar, or chain. Halter breaking is an excellent way to start the gentling process, especially if you have several goats. You can make or buy collars, chains, or inexpensive rope halters.

Goats should be caught, haltered, chained, or collared and tied to a fence. Do not tie the goats where they can hurt themselves, and do not leave tied goats unattended.

After your goat begins to gentle, you can start teaching it to lead. Use the collar, chain, or halter to keep the goat's head up while you teach it to lead. It is best to have someone assist you by pushing the goat from behind whenever it stops. Teach the goat to lead with its front shoulder even with your leg. The goat's head should be in front of your body.

The next step in the training process is to lead the goat and properly set it up. Set up the front legs first, then place the hind legs, keeping the body and neck straight and the head in a high, proud position by using the halter, chain, or collar.

You should stand at all times. Do not squat or kneel.

After the training is complete, you should practice showing. Set up your goat and show it while someone else handles it. You must make sure the goat looks good at all times. If the goat responds properly, return it to the pen and do not overwork it.

Remember, in a major show, you may have only a short time to actually show your goat. If the goat does not show properly when the judge handles it, you may get overlooked.

Appropriate Dress

Dress neatly and appropriately for show. Leather boots are preferred for safety and appearance. Wear clean jeans or slacks and shirt. Tuck your shirt in and wear a belt . You should be neat in appearance but not overdressed. Do not wear a hat or cap in the show ring. Proper planning and neat appearance will make a positive impression on the judge.

Show Time

Your planning, selection, feeding, fitting, training, and grooming all pay off in the show ring. Your skill in exhibiting your goat in showmanship cannot be emphasized enough. It is often the difference between winning and losing.

You must be mentally and physically ready to enter the show ring for competition. By completing the preparation activities, you should have confidence that you can do an effective job showing your goat.

Before the show, walk over the ring to find the high and low spots on the arena surface. This will help you get the goat set up with the front end uphill rather than in a hole. By setting the goat's front feet uphill you will give the appearance of an extended front end and a longer-patterned animal. When the judging begins, watch the judge if possible and see how he works the goats. You will feel more comfortable and confident if you know what the judge will want you to do.

In the Ring

When the appropriate class is called, take your goat to the show ring. Be sure to enter the show ring promptly, leading your goat from the left-hand side of the animal. As the ring steward lines up the goats, set your goat to look its best. Avoid corners of the ring, and leave plenty of space between your goat and others.

Quickly, yet smoothly, set the goat up so all four feet are at the corners of the body and the weight is distributed evenly to all four legs. Keep the body, neck, and head in a straight line with the head up and alert.

Never place your hand on the goat's back or the base of the neck, because this will hide the judge's view of the goat's top.

To set up, face the goat with your body and hold the head up with your right hand on the collar or lead and your left hand over the head and underneath the jaw.

Place your leg in front of the goat, and stay in front while the judge is viewing the goat from the rear. As the judge moves around the right side and to the front of the goat, remain on the left side and then face the judge and step to the side to provide a front view of the goat. As the judge moves to the left of the goat, move back to the front of the goat to give the judge a full view of the entire animal.

Handling the Goat

If the judge comes in to handle the goat, be prepared with your leg in front of the goat to keep it from jumping forward, and hold the head straight in line. Do not brace the goat as you would a lamb. This will only tend to make the goat steep out the rump and less desirable in appearance.

As a good showman you must be alert and know where the judge is at all times. Remain calm and concentrate on showing. Set up your goat and be ready before the judge gets to you. Be careful not to cover your goat with your body and block the judge's view. Always keep your goat between you and the judge.

In large classes it may take some time before the judge handles your goat. Be patient and let your goat relax.

Finishing the Class

After handling your goat, the judge usually will step back and look at it. Be sure to keep the goat's head up and body, neck, and head in a straight line.

Watch the judge and your goat. It is your responsibility to pay attention to the judge and not miss a decision.

At this point the judge will usually walk the goats and set them up on the profile. Set your goat up as discussed before. Continue to keep it set up, remain alert, and watch the judge. If your goat is not pulled the first time, keep trying. If your goat is pulled, circle it out of the line and follow the directions of the ring steward while continuing to keep an eye on the judge.

Move your goat with style and at a steady, moderate pace. Remember to keep showing at all times, because a class is not over until the ribbons are given out. Be courteous to fellow exhibitors. Remain standing at all times, and always have a pleasant facial expression. Be a good sport, a graceful loser, and a humble winner.

By R. Kipp Brown, Area Livestock Agent. Adapted from Publicaiton ANS96-603S/6, North Carolina Extension Service and Publication AS3-4.060, Texas Agricultural Extension Service.

Mississippi State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status.

Publication 2263
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. Ronald A. Brown, Director

(rev-3M-4-00)

Copyright by Mississippi State University. All rights reserved.

This document may be copied and distributed for nonprofit educational purposes provided that credit is given to the Mississippi State University Extension Service.

Common Diseases in Goats 

Ketosis 

Ketosis (also known as pregnancy toxemia) may occur in pregnant does late in their pregnancy. The doe may be depressed, weak, uninterested in food, and have poor muscle control and balance. If untreated, death follows within a few days. Early in the disease, many does will show a positive test for ketone bodies in the urine. Ketosis may occur when the doe is carrying two or more kids, or when the doe is very fat. This disease is caused by the sudden extra demand for energy by the fast-growing kids in the pregnant goat and the inability of the goat to eat enough of her normal diet to provide this energy (due to the kids taking up room in the body). The doe will rapidly metabolize fat from her body stores producing ketones (a toxic by-product) and the symptoms of the disease. Treatment with propylene glycol at two to three ounces twice a day will help. If the doe lies down and cannot stand, treatment is usually not successful unless she delivers at that time. As a preventive measure, do not let the doe get fat early in pregnancy and in the last month of pregnancy provide 1-2 pounds of grain in addition to hay. 

Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis Syndrome (CAE)  

CAE is a viral disease. In young kids symptoms include a weakness in the rear legs, with no fever, or loss of appetite, However, the unused legs lose muscle strength and structure and the infected kids eventually die. In older goats, the same disease is seen as swollen joints, particularly the knees. The disease develops slowly, and after 2 or more years, the animal has difficulty using its legs properly. Infected goats have no fever, remain alert, and eat well. However, they do not recover from the arthritis. An inexpensive blood test can be used to diagnose CAE. The disease is spread from older infected goats to kids, perhaps by contact or through the milk from an infected doe to her kid. There are no corrective procedures or treatments. Isolating kids at birth and raising them on pasteurized goat milk is done to prevent the spread. It's a good idea to make sure a goat is CAE free before purchasing. However, the blood test only checks for antibodies, and it's possible that an animal is infected and not (yet) producing antibodies. 

Mastitis 

Mastitis is an inflammation of the mammary gland (udder or milk-giving gland) of animals, usually caused by bacteria. The symptoms of mastitis are heat, pain, and swelling of the udder. Usually you will notice some discoloration of the tissue and abnormal milk. The infected udder will change in color from slightly more pink to a bright red, or to a black and cold udder. The milk from an infected udder will vary in color, texture, and thickness. The California Mastitis Test (CMT) is a good test for subclinical mastitis, but is not 100% accurate. Laboratory culture or growth of the bacteria causing the mastitis is the best way to determine the exact diagnosis. The causes of mastitis are most commonly rough treatment and unclean milking practices. Wash the goat's udder before milking, and dip (or spray) the teats after milking with a teat dip. Wash your hands before milking each goat to prevent the spread. The treatment consists of an intramammary infusion of antibiotics, sometimes accompanied by additional antibiotics. Consulting a vet is important for this disease since there are many different bacteria that cause mastitis and different antibiotics are best for each. If untreated the infection spreads and the goat may die or lose the udder. 

Acidosis

A drastic change in feed and possibly too much corn in the goat’s diet most commonly causes acidosis. When goats eat high concentrate rations, not only do the starches produce more acid, but the lack of roughage causes a decreased amount of saliva. Symptoms of acidosis include: Bloat, rapid breathing and/or lethargic behavior (staring out into "space"). If your goat is diagnosed with Acidosis, you should treat him or her immediately. Acidosis is potentially fatal, and if it does not kill your goat, it can burn the rumen and kill good bacteria leading to other diseases. Allow the animal to drink lots of water, use antacid preparations like milk of magnesia, oral tetracycline to prevent bacterial overgrowth, probiocin or rumen contents from a healthy ruminant and thiamine or B-complex vitamins.

Enterotoxemia (Over-eating disease)

Enterotoxemia, also known as "over-eating disease", is caused by the bacterium Clostridium perfringins. This bacterium is a normal inhabitant of the intestinal tract of goats and normally, is not a problem. However, there are certain conditions which trigger excessive bacterial growth in which lethal amounts of toxin are produced, resulting in death of the animal. Enterotoxemia can have no symptoms or symptoms such as diarrhea that are commonly confused with other diseases, so prevention is a MUST. Vaccinate kids once a month from the time they are 1 month old until they are 5-6 months old. Be sure to use a vivalent C&D vaccine. Treatment for the disease can be unrewarding, if your goat has already been diagnosed. Recoveries are rare, but affected goats can be treated with Clostridium antitoxin, pencillin and flunixen.

Lice

Goats have both biting and sucking lice. Many sprays are effective but resistance can occur to any of them. It is best twice 10-14 days apart to remove young lice before they mature. Cylence is effective and also works well for flies. The avermectins and moxidectins also help kill lice. Mange can be treated the same way but also treat topically with Prolate (hog spray) or a Permethrin product. Treat every 5 days till the hair starts to grow back(mange) or you see no sign of lice. Slick shearing a goat will also help kill the lice population. Be sure to treat or remove bedding in sheds and pens.

Pinkeye

This disease is usually caused by Chlamydia or Mycoplasma in goats, and is not related to Moraxella bovis, which causes pinkeye in cattle. It is contagious, but species specific. Pinkeye can be brought on by stress. Early signs of Pinkeye include runny, red, and swollen eyes. The dark part of the eye (cornea) becomes hazy and then turns opaque (clouds over). The goat begins to lose its sight. If left untreated, blindness can occur. Most goats recover without any treatment however, so be certain the treatment you choose does not cause any harm. If the eye looks like it is going to rupture, a conjunctivial or third eyelid flap should be used to protect the eyeball. If your goat has been diagnosed with pinkeye, there are a few means of treatment. If the eye has not ulcerated, apply tetracycline (Terramycin) ophthalmic ointment three or four times a day (minimum twice a day) , using disposable gloves to prevent spread of the infection. Powders and aerosols are not recommended because they can be more irritating especially if the eye is ulcerated. In severe cases of Pinkeye, injectable oxytetracycline (LA200 or equivalent) may be used in addition to topical eye ointments. If the goat is pregnant, however, remember that oxytetracycline is known to interfere with bone and teeth formation in the unborn kid.

Soremouth

Soremouth is spread by a parapoxvirus that is highly contagious. It is more commonly found in sheep than goats, however goats are still susceptible. It affects primarily the lips and noses of young animals. If they are nursing off dams which have not previously had the disease or been vaccinated, the dams will also display identical sores on the teats and udder where it may cause mastitis. The sores start as small red spots which form blisters that burst to form ulcers. These are followed by characteristic grayish-brown cauliflower-like scabs. There will be spontaneous healing and the scabs will fall off in about three weeks. The skin at the corona of the hooves can also be affected. To prevent the disease, there is a soremouth vaccine that is available, but because it is a live virus vaccine, many farmers have mixed feelings whether the vaccine helps or hurts. We suggest you speak with your vet to see if the vaccine would be beneficial to your goat or flock. If your goat has been diagnosed with soremouth, immediately isolate him or her from the rest of the herd. You can apply antibotical cream to the infected area to prevent secondary diseases. (Antibiotics WILL NOT kill a virus, they only work on bacteria.)

Coccidiosis

Coccidia are tiny intestinal parasites, actually protozoans, which can cause foamy, bloody diarrhea or a dull, dry coat. Sometimes a goat with coccidiosis (coccidia infestation) has an on-again-off-again soft stool or no obvious symptoms at all. You might not suspect a problem until you notice that your kids are not growing as well as they should. Coccidiosis is characterized by a foul smelling diarrhea and along with diarrhea comes dehydration and fever. The organism, which causes Coccidiosis, is an intestinal parasite named Coccidiosis and the oocysts are present to some degree in all goats. Babies are particularly susceptible to the disease because their immune systems are not developed. It is passed through fecal-to-oral contact, usually as babies first begin to eat solid foods. If your goat has been diagnosed with Coccidiosis, Banamine (prescription required) should be administered intramuscularly (IM) at a rate of 1 cc per 100 pounds of body weight. Banamine should not be used but once every 36-72 hours, because it causes stomach ulcers if used too frequently. A severely dehydrated goat should receive Re-Sorb electrolytes, both in an oral drench and in the water bucket. Young kids up to four months of age are at highest risk and should be treated at least once with the medication Albon or Corid. Our veterinarian recommends that they receive Albon or Corid for one week beginning at about three or four weeks of age and again if they are very stressed, such as when separated from their mother. If in doubt, take a stool sample to a veterinarian who regularly treats goats. 

Urinary Calculi

Male goat (buck) kids that are not being kept as future herd sires are usually castrated so that they will no longer be fertile. It is less traumatic to castrate the kid when he is very young but this will make him more susceptible to urinary calculi because his urethra (the tube that carries his urine from his bladder to the opening in his penis) will not develop to its full size and is easier to clog up.

Urinary calculi occur when the urethra gets blocked up with mineral deposits and urine cannot pass through it. If the deposits or "stones" are not somehow passed or dissolved, the kid’s bladder will burst and he will die. Ideally, you should wait until your kid is 10 weeks old to castrate him but this is not always possible. Other preventions for urinary calculi that you should practice include:

1. Feeding a ration with a 2:1 calcium to phosphorus ratio
2. Adding ammonium chloride to his feed at a rate of about 15 lbs. per ton of feed or else giving him about ½ ounce (about a tablespoon) to 1 ounce (2 tbsp.) per day depending on his size unless his feed already contains it
3. Making sure he gets plenty of exercise and drinks lots of water (keep his water in the shade if hot and unfrozen if cold, always have salt available to him)
4. Checking daily to make sure he is urinating easily without straining and has no blood in his urine.

A Suggested Health Program for Club Goats 

At Purchase 

1. Inquire about previous vaccination history. If you did not see it go in, vaccinate.
2. Give a booster or start CD/T vaccinations.
3. Deworm with Ivomec sheep drench orally (4cc per 20 #) or some other type-deworming product at 1.5 times the cattle rate.
4. Treat with a rumen microbal culture to stimulate appetite (probios).
5. Use an insecticide for lice control (permectrin) if needed.
6. Get the goats located and establish a feeding routine using a feed with a coccidiostat.
7. The goat should be on feed and healthy before any dehorning or castration is done. 

Injection sites- IM-under the front leg or on side of the neck; Sub Q-under the front leg. Never inject in the rear half or top of the goat. Change needles often. 

Follow-up 

1. CD/T booster in 2-3 weeks, then every 2 months thereafter.
2. Deworm monthly.
3. Re-treat with the microbial culture at any signs of stress, feed changes, and treatment with antibiotics. 

Treatments 

1. Use ruminant food animal approved drugs only. Goats have high metabolic rates and need 1.5 times the label dose. A veterinarian-client-patient relationship is needed. Extend label slaughter withdrawal times, 1.5 to 2 times, because of off-label use. 

What to use: 

Wounds and/or Surgery - Penicillin G at 1cc per 20-50 # daily for 3-5 days. 

Respiratory - Excenel at 1.5 times the cattle dose daily for 3-5 days, or Nuflor at 1.5 times the cattle dose alternating days for 3 doses, or Penicillin G at 1cc per 20-50 # daily for 3-5 days. 

Digestive Problems – Treat with a microbial culture, then encourage and/or force fluid and electrolytes. Check for worms, coccidia and stress. 

Pinkeye – Start ophthalmic antibiotic ointment early, not powders or irritating injectable antibiotics like LA 200. Penicillin G dripped on the eyeball works well. They may have associated respiratory problems. You can help prevent problems by controlling dust, fly and undue stress on the premises. 

Skin Fungus\Ringworm – Isolate and treat early and aggressively!! Clip hair, remove scales/crust, scrub with Nalvasan or Betadine, apply topical antifungals often and continue for up to 6 weeks. Disinfect all equipment and area daily. May need a systemic antibiotic like Penicillin G or Nulfor if deeper than the skin only. May need a systemic antifungal drug. These will have a long withdrawal time. Always use insecticides to remove lice. Lice do not cause fungus! Remember that a skin fungus is contagious to humans and hard to treat. Take precautions. 

Urinary Calculi – Prevention is the best policy! Demand proper Calcium: Phosphorus ratios (2:1 to 4:1) in your feed. A corn based ration is much better than milo. Ammonium Chloride should be added in feed at a rate of 10-20 lbs/ton. Don’t add a bunch of junk to the feed! (Corn, cottonseed, dog food, m & m’s etc.) This will throw the ration out of balance and increases the risk of urinary calculi. Clean, fresh, cool and high quality water is a must and should be always available. Check the pH of your water source if in doubt! A high calcium/low phosphorus mineral with added NH4CL can be left out free choice. 

Inappropriate Drug Uses: 

Micotil – not safe for sheep or goats and especially for people! 

Gentocin – Very long slaughter withdrawal time! 

Baytril – Restricted to beef calves only! 

Almost any systemic drug should be discontinued 30 days prior to a terminal show or possible slaughter.